Hello again! The post of today
is dedicated to surfing enthusiasts, those who have a dream in common: Mavericks.
We are from Tahiti (Hawaii) where
the waves have normal size, from 3 to 5 meters . As we like the
adventure, for a while now we are
devoting ourselves to surf big
waves in competitions around the world.
I´m going to speak a little of that dream, Mavericks.
For all surfers is something that few reach; For all surfers
is something that few reach; It is a competition
that takes many hours of sacrifice in and out of water, and of course it
is very difficult get into the competition
because you have to pass many trials.
For us this dream was achieved. I will never forget the August 30, 2013, when I received a call from our sponsor at 4 in the morning giving us the
scoop: we were
in the competition !
Since that day until October
30 that opens up competition time all were training.
Finally came that day, December 15 when
we were told that the next day
would be the expected competition where we will surfer the biggest waves of the season, 10 to 12 meters high.
We woke up very sleepy and went
direct in a van to a cliff from where we
would have to walk down our
tables to a small beach. From that beach hopped
on a boat that took us up past the breakwater and
there we waited for our turn off.
We were 40 in the competition, , and each of us play in a different batch.
Once it was
my turn everything was nerves.
When I surfed the first wave, nerves turned into adrenaline and emotion. After so long dreaming about those waves, I was surfing it in a competition.
When I surfed the first wave, nerves turned into adrenaline and emotion. After so long dreaming about those waves, I was surfing it in a competition.
The first wave came out perfect to me,
come to the end without any problem, where I picked
up by a jet ski to surf the next wave. The weariness, fatigue and cold
were beginning to be present, but I could
not surrender and I surfed the second wave. All "S&S" were
in the top 15, and although we didn´t win anything, we had fulfilled our dream.
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