Tuesday, January 6, 2015

A dream of every surfer: Mavericks (in California)




Hello again! The post of today is dedicated to surfing enthusiasts, those who have a dream in common: Mavericks.
We are from Tahiti (Hawaii) where the waves have normal size, from 3 to 5 meters . As we like the adventure, for a while now we are devoting ourselves to surf big waves in competitions around the world.
I´m going to speak a little of that dream, Mavericks.
For all surfers is something that few reach; For all surfers is something that few reach; It is a competition that takes many hours of sacrifice in and out of water, and of course it is very difficult get into the competition because you have to pass many trials.
For  us this dream was achieved. I will never forget the August 30, 2013, when I received a call from our sponsor at 4 in the morning giving us the scoop:  we were in the competition !
Since that day until October 30 that opens up competition time all were training.
Finally came that day, December 15 when we were told that the next day would be the expected competition where we will surfer the biggest waves of the season, 10 to 12 meters high.
We woke up very sleepy and went direct in a van to a cliff from where we would have to walk down our tables to a small beach. From that beach hopped on a boat that took us up past the breakwater and there we waited for our turn off.
We were 40 in the competition, , and each of us play  in a different batch.
Once it was my turn everything was nerves. 
When I surfed the first wave, nerves turned into adrenaline and emotion. After so long dreaming about those waves, I was surfing it in a competition.
The first wave came out perfect to me, come to the end without any problem, where I picked up by a jet ski to surf the next wave. The weariness, fatigue and cold were beginning to be present, but I could not surrender and I surfed the second wave. All "S&S" were in the top 15, and although we didn´t win anything, we had fulfilled our dream.
I have attached a video of some moments of the competition.

Mavericks 

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